The Animal Health & Happiness Expert Q&A
Behavioual page
Our expert canine behaviourist, Nick Jones of Alpha Dog Behaviour is here to answer your questions
If you have a behavioural problem with your pet please send it to info@twospublishing.co.uk and Nick will offer you advice and information to help you and your pet.
Q. Hi there, I have just found your site on the web while hastily looking for help for a friend. Hastily, so unfortunately haven't space/time at moment to browse what looks like a great site and an absolute 'find'!
However to problem in hand: My friend has a young Labrador just a few months old and by all reports fabulous – except…we discovered he gets sick in the car! This is quite a problem, as she has to visit her elderly father fairly regularly. We are not talking huge journey, approximately half an hour maximum, but he's getting sickly even on local runs. He has a 'bedroom' of a cage in the house, which my friend is thinking of putting in back of her car.
Can you suggest anything?
Many thanks Andrea Clarkson
A. Hello Andrea and thank you for asking the sort of question that is not uncommon to deal with, especially in young dogs.
I am keen to point out that the key element with such behaviour in terms of overcoming it is not to stop the car travel due to the problem itself. This is in my experience a ‘retrograde’ step, and can make it worse the next time you are forced to use the car to take your dog to the vets for example. I am also keen to add that with many young dogs it will be overcome by sticking at it, and not giving up the car journeys. Most dogs simply grow out of it, so don’t panic just yet.
Having said all that I am not a fan of just leaving it to chance and the maturation of the dog. So many issues like this are handled in that way and the dog may grow into the problem rather than out of it as a result.
Ideally we accustom the dog to car travel from an early age like six weeks, this can then create a positive association with car travel. Five minute long car journeys at this age are ideal for creating a positive attitude. The dog will soon associate car travel with rewards of attention, companionship and later on shopping and walks in the park. These end rewards are what make the dog love the car and travelling in it.
You mention the possible use of a crate. This strikes me as a good idea assuming it will fit into the car ok, and that the dog is relaxed within it. A crate can prevent pacing and slipping about once it’s well padded with towels. I would use towels by the way, as nicer bedding will be getting messy if he’s being sick in transit. The crate will also prevent him from being sick down the edges of your car upholstery…nice subject eh?
I speak from experience! Both of my Wire-Haired Vizslas have had travel sickness in the beginning, and yes, they grew out of it.
So, let’s assume you can get the existing (or another custom-fit crate) into your car and he is ok in the crate (free from stress). Line it with easy to wash towels as suggested above, and outside of the crate keep a few fresh ones aside. I also keep a bin liner to hold the yucky ones, and some kitchen towel for drying up. Hand cleanser may be nice too! This is your ‘clean up kit’, because let’s face it the dog is unhappy travelling, and it won’t be cured over night, and there remains a good chance it will happen again.
I have had success with various supplements to help settle the dog when car travelling. These include: Scullcap & Valerian tablets (www.dorwest.com) , DAP collars and or sprays and in some cases the dog can be distracted with a stuffed Kong.
Try this little plan to help your dog. If he is not too bad then you can accelerate through this plan, otherwise time your time.
Week 1.
No car travel this week, just feed him in the crate in the car. At first stay right by your dog remaining pretty quiet to comfort him with your presence.
If all well after 2/3 days close the back of your car and leave him to eat alone. Aim to leave your dog for about five minutes. Allow him to jump in and out alone. When you let him out make no fuss, behave in a relaxed manner. Assuming he is free from drooling or discomfort, move on to week 2.
Week 2.
Continue as with week 1 but now introduce five-minute drives at least twice daily. You can either do this once the dog has finished eating, or at another random time in the day. Build these car travel times up gradually on each drive and try to stop off half way to a park for a run about and play with you if this is possible.
Week 3.
By this time you should be taking your dog to the park each day with you to let off energy, to play with you and to take in a little light training. Be sure not to go more than 15 minutes from your home at this stage.
By this stage you should have a much more relaxed dog and you can then seek to extend the drive times and distances on the basis that he is coping well.
It’s never easy to address a question like this as I am rarely in possession of all the facts needed to offer good specific advice. In any event I hope that helps. Should you need further help please feel free to contact me directly.
Nick Jones MCFBA
www.alphadogbehaviour.o.uk
Twitter: @ukdogtrainer
Q. As soon as we go up to bed at night my dog starts howling. Could you please give me advice to stop this behaviour. My neighbours have started to complain and I'm afraid that I will have to give the dog away, as I live in a flat.
Mrs D Dobbs, Wednesbury, West Midlands
I wonder how long this has been happening for, I assume this is also happening during the daytime when you go out or go to work? Either way, it would seem you are looking at a case of separation anxiety. This simply means that your dog is not coping well when left alone, and suggests a bond between you, which is too close. Dogs need to learn to be alone from an early age and ideally we would deal with this on a preventative level in the early stages.
A key area top address with dogs that behave this way is your greetings and departures. Begin to remove yourself from the dog both physically and emotionally about 30 minutes prior to placing the dog in the kitchen. Make no attempt to look at your dog so that the transition from you being there to leaving it is manageable for the dog. This may be hard for you, but you will be helping your dog.
When it comes to placing the dog in the kitchen you will need to be matter of fact and avoid affectionate goodbyes or touching…this is in an effort to leave your dog in a relaxed emotional state…not into you and wanting for fuss to continue.
I would give the dog a small stuffed Kong at this stage to distract it as you leave. Those measures alone should help your dog. There are a number of other measures you could add in, but without the full picture try this for now. IF the dog starts to bark at night, be sure not to reappear or make a verbal sound to it. What can help is that you walk along the landing to a point close enough to be heard, and make a fairly firm 'Tap-Tap' noise on the banister or wall with a hard implement. This can interrupt the dog without causing fear, and many clients confirm that this helps a great deal when used as a part of the bigger plan of action. Repeat the taps as needed Whilst the dog is barking.
So my answer here is simple, but hopefully effective. Good luck, Nick
Nick Jones MCFBA
Alpha Dog Behaviour
www.alphadogbehaviour.co.uk
Q. Since being spayed about 3 weeks ago my dog has become aggressive, and quite naughty, ie, getting up onto furniture and chewing woodwork. She has also started to lactate. Is this normal?
Mrs Pitcher, Birmingham
I have heard many a story directly from clients that their dog's behaviour deteriorated post castration or spaying…especially with bitches. This may be attributed towards the fact that progesterone and oestrogen are calming hormones. You don't say whether the dog is more aggressive with other dogs or people…possibly you the owner?
The other excessive behaviours you mention were most likely happening before the operation, as they rarely appear 'Just like that'. I would encourage you to implement a new regime of fair and balanced rules. Place a lead on your dog when in the home to enable a swift yet non-aggressive method to interrupt your dog's behaviour (couch jumping for example or shows of aggression to you) and to regain your own confidence and levels of control. Place the dog in a quiet spot for a couple of minutes as a time out further to such behaviour, and ensure she is calm and quiet before letting her back in. Simple, yet normally effective.
Finally, I think a return to your vet would be advisable. Discuss the lactation and behavioural changes, and if you are still uncertain seek the help of a recommended behaviourist that can assist you through this stage with your dog. Best wishes, Nick.
Nick Jones MCFBA
Alpha Dog Behaviour
www.alphadogbehaviour.co.uk
Q. My dog is pretty good on the lead except when she knows that we are on-route to the park. She then pulls me so hard that I have been pulled over on a couple of occasions. I have tried different routes to the park but she just seems to have an innate sense of when we are going to end up there! Any suggestions
Sarah Smith, Great Barr
You're not alone in the way your dog is behaving when on the outward journey to a place of great fun and enjoyment! Your dog needs to learn more self-control and this will have to come from you as a direction giver. We don't want to take the joy away, but equally we can't have being pulled over can we? Time and patience will help a great deal here.
This starts right at the point of leaving the home, so ensure the dog will sit and wait as you ready yourself, and then is only allowed out when you ask it to. If at any time the dog rushes ahead or barges, you bring her back in and start again. Obviously, once you are a distance from the door you will have to deal with that behaviour at that spot rather than to go back home! We are trying to show her that calm relaxed walking equals progress and forward movement, and that pulling or bouncing about equals stopping, coming back a few paces, waiting for calm then setting off again.
I would suggest you have a few trial sessions whereby you don't get to the park at all, but to focus on the small details such as behaviour surrounding the front (or back) door as you exit, the pavement walking and to deal with the poor behaviour on a micro level rather than to focus on getting to the park. Be sure that other small steps such as putting the lead on are done in an orderly, polite manner so that you maintain that control which will then flow to the outside when walking.
Hopefully these pointers will get you going in the right direction.
Nick Jones MCFBA
Alpha Dog Behaviour
www.alphadogbehaviour.co.uk
Q. I have a lovely gentle dog that is about 6 years old. I have another dog who is now a year old. She is a Rottweiler. When she was small, her and my other dog got on very well together, but now she has grown up, she has started to bully my older dog and sometimes it gets quite nasty. I have to put them in separate rooms whenever I go out as I am stating to fear for my older dog.
Why has she started to become a bully?
Mrs Harris, Northfield, Birmingham
You are most likely seeing a natural progression in your younger dog as she climbs the 'pack-ladder' and starts to challenge your other dog. Rotties are generally a confident breed that have a sense of their own size and demeanour, hence this behaviour.
It is important that you do not allow the younger dog to flex its weight over the older dog to the point of showing aggression. I hear some people advise them to 'fight it out' but this should not happen in a domestic (or otherwise) environment. YOU are number one in the home and will need to control the younger dog's behaviour by means of being firm but fair. No shouting or rough handling is required, but you will need to quietly show the younger dog that such aggressive displays will not be tolerated.
It is most important that you step in early if you feel that a scene is deteriorating in front of you. Try placing the dog into 'Time out' for a few minutes should it be behaving poorly, and release back in once calm and quiet. Repeat as needed.
Ensure that the younger dog understands that you will not tolerate overt bullying or aggressive behaviour. She may well be the upper dog even though she is 12 months and your older dog is six years, so that is ok and I advise you to generally support her role. I have seen a number of problems like this as the younger dog emerges as being the natural leader of say two dogs in a home, but the owner wants to support the older and generally more established and longer loved counterpart. I can understand this fully, but it can cause problems of its own. Allow the dogs to find their own natural order, but this should be done free from aggressive behaviour.
In your absence and for peace of mind it would be advisable to keep them apart if you were concerned. That way no harm can occur in your absence. I suspect that the next six months or so would be important to monitor this situation. Any further deterioration, then I would advise you seek the help of a dog aggression specialist.
Nick Jones MCFBA
Alpha Dog Behaviour
www.alphadogbehaviour.co.uk